When most people think of Italy, their minds go straight to Tuscany or Rome. But Sicily? It's its own universe — the largest island in the Mediterranean, an autonomous region of Italy, and honestly one of the most underrated destinations in Europe. Dramatic coastlines, an extraordinary layering of Arab, Norman, Greek, and Spanish influences, and the tallest active volcano on the continent. It earns every superlative.
Planning Your Trip: What to Know First
Sicily is bigger than you think. A full loop of the island's 600 miles of coastline takes 13–16 hours of non-stop driving. Most visitors wisely pick one side — east or west — or budget enough time to explore both without rushing.
Getting There on Points & Miles ✈️
- From the US, you won't fly directly into Sicily. Your best bet is routing through Rome (FCO), Athens, Istanbul or Milan (MXP) on partner awards. Flying Blue (Air France/KLM) often has sweet spots into Rome, and Turkish Miles&Smiles can get you there for far fewer miles than most programs. From the mainland, cheap Ryanair or Vueling flights into Catania (CTA) or Palermo (PMO) run €20–60.
- Points hotels: Catania and Palermo have Marriott and IHG properties. But for character and value, locally-run guesthouses and B&Bs often beat chain hotels on both price and experience — think €50–80/night with breakfast included.
- Best budget airline to know: Ryanair dominates intra-Sicily and Italy routes. Set fare alerts and book early.
Getting Around 🚂
The train network connects most major towns at very reasonable prices — think €3–11 for most journeys. Buses fill in the gaps where trains don't reach, particularly in the western part of the island. Renting a car unlocks smaller villages and rural areas, and is genuinely worth it if you plan to explore beyond the main cities. Fuel is expensive but roads outside cities are largely easy to navigate.
The East Coast
Catania 🐘
Catania tends to get overlooked in favor of Palermo or Taormina, which means you'll find it less crowded and more authentic. The city center is built almost entirely from black volcanic basalt — dramatic and unlike anywhere else in Italy. Check out Piazza del Duomo, a sweeping baroque plaza anchored by the city's famous elephant fountain (the elephant is Catania's symbol, beloved and inexplicable in equal measure). The Castello Ursino is worth an hour, and the fish market (La Pescheria) in the morning is a full sensory experience — loud, chaotic, and wonderful.
If you want to go deeper, an underground tour of the city is a genuine highlight. Led by an archaeologist, it takes you beneath the cathedral to ancient Roman baths, under a church where locals sheltered during WWII, and into tunnels following the city's original water source. It's one of those experiences that reframes everything you see above ground.
Getting There: We flew from Malta — about 45 minutes and €60. There's also a ferry from Valletta, but note that it docks about 1.5 hours south of Siracusa by train or bus. For the airport transfer into the city center, a taxi or Bolt/Uber runs around €25 for the 15-minute ride. The train is a better deal at €3–4, but requires a €1 shuttle bus from the terminal to the nearby train station — buy that ticket online since the station kiosk can be out of service.
Budget Tip 💰: A free walking tour is an excellent way to orient yourself on arrival. Tip-based, knowledgeable guides, and you leave with a real feel for the city's history.
Taormina 🏔️
An easy day trip from Catania by train — €11 round trip and genuinely simple. The town sits perched on a clifftop with jaw-dropping views of both the sea and Mt. Etna. Yes, it's touristy. Yes, the shops lean expensive. But the views are real, the Greek Theatre (Teatro Antico) is spectacular, the pistachio products are to die for and the pizza — truly some of the best you'll eat in Italy.
The train station sits at the bottom of the mountain. A shuttle bus runs up to town, though some visitors hike it — described by those who did it as a serious workout rather than a pleasant stroll. One full day is plenty to enjoy Taormina at a relaxed pace without feeling the need to stay overnight.
Mt. Etna 🌋
Don't skip this. Europe's tallest and most active volcano is endlessly fascinating, and seeing it from afar doesn't do it justice — you want to get up there.
A small group tour is worth the money for the guide alone. As you ascend, the landscape shifts in ways that are hard to describe: vegetation gives way to alien-looking lava fields, the rock changes color and texture, and your guide contextualizes what you're seeing — different eras of lava flows, the ecosystem recovering around them, the wildlife that's adapted to live here. The hike itself isn't strenuous, though winds at elevation can be fierce; bring a layer.
Lunch at the mountain lodge was included in the tour — a choice of entrees followed by cannoli 🤌 — and felt like a bonus rather than an afterthought.
If you're going independently, you can drive or bus up, park, and do the same hike. Separate chairlift and bus tickets are available to reach higher elevations, though most visitors find the accessible slopes more than satisfying.
Budget Tip 💰: Compare group tour prices in advance — operators in Catania vary significantly. Booking directly rather than through a hotel concierge usually saves money.
Siracusa & Ortigia 🏛️
Take the train south from Catania (easy, affordable) and you'll arrive in Siracusa, connected to the small island of Ortigia by a pedestrian bridge. This is where you slow down.
Ortigia is compact, walkable, and best explored on foot — if you have a car, leave it on the mainland side. The streets are genuinely narrow, the architecture is a gorgeous mix of baroque and ancient Greek, and the Piazza del Duomo here rivals anything in mainland Italy. A Greek temple was literally incorporated into the cathedral — the original columns are still visible inside the walls.
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The farmers market is worth timing your morning around, with local produce that's cheaper and better than anything in a supermarket. Gelato shops and family-run restaurants line every lane. The shoreline is rocky rather than sandy, so it's more about the scenery than swimming, but the water is beautiful.
Don't miss: The Neapolis Archaeological Park, home to a remarkably preserved Greek theatre and a Roman amphitheatre. It's one of the finest ancient sites in all of Sicily and easy to visit on a half-day. Entry is around €13.
West Coast: Worth the Detour 🌅
If you have time to venture west, the highlights are different in character but equally compelling:
- Palermo: Chaotic, vibrant, and packed with extraordinary street food. The Ballarò market is one of the best in Italy. Norman palaces and Arab-Norman churches (a UNESCO-listed architectural style unique to Sicily) are everywhere.
- Cefalù: A compact beach town with a massive Norman cathedral looming over it. Easier to navigate than Palermo and a lovely place to spend a night or two.
- Valley of the Temples (Agrigento): Some of the best-preserved Greek temples anywhere in the world — better than much of what survives in Greece itself. A half-day from Palermo or a stop en route between coasts.
- Marsala and the Salt Flats: The western tip of the island has a beautiful, flat landscape of salt pans with windmills, and the town of Marsala produces the wine that shares its name. Quiet, scenic, and very un-touristy.
Practical Budget Notes 💶
- Food: Sicily is one of the most affordable regions in Italy. Street food — arancini (fried rice balls), panelle (chickpea fritters), granita with brioche for breakfast — is exceptional and costs almost nothing. Sit-down dinners at local restaurants run €15–25 per person with wine.
- Granita: Do not leave Sicily without having granita for breakfast. A cold, semi-frozen slush (lemon, almond, pistachio, strawberry) served alongside a fluffy brioche roll is the local morning ritual and costs around €3–4. It sounds strange. It is perfect.
- Cash: Many smaller restaurants, markets, and guesthouses are cash-preferred. Have euros on hand.
- Timing: May–June and September–October offer great weather, thinner crowds, and lower prices than peak July–August. Winter is mild by northern European standards and very quiet — a genuinely interesting time to visit if beach weather isn't a priority.
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