For two hours, we trekked along dirt roads and thick jungle trails in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, guided by a ranger and accompanied by an armed guard. The pace was steady, the air heavy, and every sound felt amplified.
We paused in a small clearing for a snack and waited for word from the gorilla tracker. About 15 minutes later, his voice crackled over the walkie-talkie — he had located our family. 🦍
We moved quickly downhill through dense brush. Then our guide raised his hand. Silence.
Suddenly the vegetation around us began to shake. One by one — and then all at once — gorillas emerged from the leaves. They were everywhere. Silverbacks. Mothers. Juveniles tumbling through the undergrowth.
For the next hour, we stood among them as they ate, played, groomed, and simply existed. No barriers. No glass. Just quiet observation. At one point, a baby wandered over, studying us with the same curiosity we felt toward her. It was a powerful, grounding moment.
After exactly one hour (the strict limit), our guide signaled it was time to leave. We trekked halfway back and stopped for lunch in another clearing. No one said much. We were all replaying it in our heads.
Rwanda or Uganda?
You can only see mountain gorillas in the wild in
Rwanda and
Uganda. There are approximately 1,500 mountain gorillas left in the world — roughly 500 in Rwanda and 1,000 in Uganda. Thanks to serious conservation efforts, their population has steadily increased, which is one of the great wildlife success stories. 🌍
If you’re considering a trek, your first decision is location. You’ll find plenty of debate online about which country offers the “easier” hike, but the biggest difference is cost:
A portion of every permit goes directly to conservation and local communities. Permits are limited daily and frequently sell out months in advance.
You’ll need to secure your permit through an official tour operator at least 3–6 months ahead. It’s normal to wire funds in advance to lock in your spot.
Getting There
If trekking in Rwanda
Treks take place in Volcanoes National Park, about 2–3 hours from Kigali.
You can hire a private driver or book a tour. While it’s technically possible as a long day trip, the mandatory trek briefing begins at 7:00 a.m., so staying overnight nearby is often the smarter option.
Hotels in the area range from approximately $100 to $1,000 per night.
If trekking in Uganda
Treks in Uganda are typically in Bwindi. From Kigali, the drive is 5–6 hours. From Kampala, it’s 8–10 hours by car or about 1.5 hours by domestic flight.
Plan to stay at least 1–2 nights near the park. Bwindi has four different trekking sectors, and your permit will assign you a specific one — book lodging close to your designated entrance to avoid early-morning logistics stress. You’ll also need transportation between your lodge and the park headquarters.
What to Wear 🎒
Skip mosquito repellent right before the trek — guides advise that strong scents can actually attract insects in the dense forest.
Practical Tips
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Hire a porter at the park ($20). It supports the local community and makes steep sections much easier.
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Bring cash for tips. Around $10 per person for the guide, tracker, and guard is appropriate.
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Be cautious of inflated pricing from third-party travel agencies. Permits have fixed costs — large markups are common.
If seeing mountain gorillas is on your list, it’s absolutely doable with thoughtful planning. It’s physical, it’s regulated, and it’s not inexpensive — but standing quietly in a Ugandan jungle while a baby gorilla studies you? That’s hard to put a price on. 🦍✨
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